Ladakh

The Land of Endless Discovery

Area : 97000 sq. kms. (Approx)
Altitude : Average elevation 3,500 mts.
Season : May to November
Language : Ladakhi, Purik, Balti, English, Tibetan

As Ladakh has always had close cultural and trading connections with Tibet its predominant culture stems from Buddhism.This is particularly evident in the most populated region of Leh and the Indus Valley with its many whitewashed gompas
( monasteries ) and forts perched on top of Sugarloaf Mountains.Padum the capital of more remote Zanskar shares this Buddhist heritage.Kargil and the Suru Valley the third main region of Ladakh is predominantly shi’ia Muslim and share a cultural affinity with Baltistan ( in Pakistan since Indian Partition in 947).

Ladakh- the land of high passes- marks the boundary between the peaks of the western Himalaya and the vast Tibetan Plateau. Opened up to tourists in 1974 Ladakh has been variously described as ‘the moonland’, ‘Little Tibet’ and even ‘the Shangri La’. Whatever the description it’s one of the most remote regions of India. Yet for thousands of visitors Ladakh is a completely magical place remote with delightful, gentle, ungrasping people.
Until very recently Ladakhi society has generally been very introverted and the economy surprisingly self-sufficient. Ladakh also developed a very distinct culture. Polyandry was common but many men became lamas (monks) and a few women chomos (nuns). Most people depended on subsistence agriculture but the harsh climate contributed to very high death rates and a stable population. That is rapidly changing. Imported goods are increasingly widely available and more and more people taking part in the monetary economy.The capital of Ladakh is Leh.
Ladakh is land like no other. Bounded by two of the world’s mightiest mountain ranges the Great Himalaya and the Karokoram it lies between two thinner ones the Ladakh range and the Zanskar range.
In geological terms this is a young land formed only a few million years ago by the buckling and folding of the earth’s crust as the Indian sub-continent pushed with irresistible force against the immovable mass of Asia.
Its basic contours uplifted by these unimaginable tectonic movements have been modified over the millennia by the opposite process of erosion sculpted into the form we see today by wind and water. The main source of water remains the winter snowfall. Drass Zanskar and the Suru Valley on the Himalaya’s northern flank receive heavy snow in winter; this feeds the glaciers whose melt water carried down by streams irrigates the fields in summer.
For the rest of the region the snow on the peaks is virtually the only source of water. Viewed from high above its surface Ladakh appears a vast monotony of three colours; the brown of the earth the white of the snow and the black of the dark shadows in the valleys. On descending to the surface level the picture transforms into one of vibrant vitality of effervescent streams flower-decked meadows gaily dressed Ladakhis serene Lamas high-flying eagles and fleet-footed mountain sheep. Now the Arctic-like desert turns into a picture of animation.
Ladak’s early history is woven into its mythology. And though the great Chinese wanderer Fa-Hien travelled its folds as far back as 399 AD it was till but a few decades ago what its name describes it as: ‘A Land of Passes’ (La-Doghs : Passes and hillocks).
Means of modern communication have brought this hinterland of traditional Buddhism into the circuit of an ordinary tourist. Ladakh beckons for more than one reason. The defiant beauty of its barren landscape its unique flora and fauna its cultural its clear blue skies and clean air ‘the land where snow never melts and only corn ripens ’ has more to offer than a good holiday.
Ladakh lies at altitudes ranging from about 9000 feet (2750 mts.) at Kargil to 25170 feet (7672 mts.) at Saser Kangri in the Karakoram. Thus summer temperatures rarely exceed about 270c in the shade while in winter they may plummet to -200c even in Leh.
Surprisingly though the thin air makes the heat of the sun even more intense than at lower altitudes; It is said that only in Ladakh can a man sitting in the sun with his feet in the shade suffer from sunstroke and frostbite at the same time.

Places of attraction
Ladakh is renowned for its Buddhist monasteries which are dotted all over the sparsely populated countryside each richly decorated with manuscripts. The following are within easy reach of Leh.

Leh Palace: It is in the north beyond the Old Village has been described as a miniature version of Lhasa’s Potala Palace. Singay Namgiyal built the palace in the late 16th century; the palace stands like a sentinel overlooking the town. Inside there are old wall paintings depicting the life of the Buddha? Open summer 0700-0930 and also sometimes 1500-1800. It has nine storeys sloping buttresses and projecting wooden balconies.

A part of the palace a Museum. It has numerous rooms steps and narrow passages lined with the old thangkas paintings lined with old thangkas paintings lined with the old thangkas paintings and arms. The central prayer room usually locked but opened on request has religious texts lining the walls. The Archaeological Survey of India is responsible for restoration.

Namgyl Tsemo : Soaring above the valley the monastery dominates both the palace and the town exhibiting in a manner the supremacy of the spiritual King. The monastery houses a gilded statue of the Buddha painted scrolls ancient manuscript and wall paintings.

Leh Mosque: Built by Deldan Namgyl in the mind 17th century a tribute to his Muslim mother the Leh mosque is an exquisite work of Turko-Iranian architecture and stands majestically in the main bazaar. It is worth visiting (not open to woman visitors). The Sunni Muslim mosque is believed to stand on the land granted by King Deldan Namgyl in the 1660s; his grandmother was the Muslim Queen of Ladakh. The Mahabodhi society International Meditation Centre is in town.

Gompa Tsemo ( 15th century) : One of the royal monasteries Tsemo Gompa is located near the palace is known for its two-storeyed statue of Chamb Buddha in a sitting posture. It is a strenuous walk north of the city and has a colossal 2-storey high image of Maitreya flanked by figures of Avalokitesvara (right) and Manjusri (left). The Namgyl rulers founded it and a portrait of Tashi namgyl hangs on the left at the entrance.

Nimmu: About 8 kms. East towards Leh lays Nimmu at the confluence of differently coloured Indus and Znskar Rivers. A refreshing spot for tea. A direct minibus leaves Leh for Nimmu.

Basgo: It is listed as one of the top 100 endangered World Heritage sites in 2000. This 400 years old mud-brick gompa can be reached only through winding steep tracks. Ser Zung Temple with great frescoes in the prayer room another temple with an enormous gold and copper statue of the Maitreya Buddha (future Buddha) is worthy attractions. Daily buses from Leh to Alchi Pan Basgo.

Saspul: Over the river from Alchi on the main road is a village Saspul that has a small
White and red cave temple nearby.

Rizong: Rizong Gompa and Julichen Nunnery are about 6 kms. Along a steep rocky track path of the main road. There is no village at Rizong but accommodation is available at the gompa (for men) or the nunnery (for women) as there are no direct bus is there a bus bound for Kargil or taxi will be best.

Khasi: There has been a bridge over the Indus River at the turn-off to Dhahran at Khalsi. It is also a checkpost with a major military area around it is a checkpost.

Shey Gompa: 15 kms. South of Leh Shey was the former summer palace of the kings of Ladakh. The gompa with its small library collection of thagkas some stupas mani walls 12 m Sakyamuni Buddha statue made of copper but gold plated is easy to reach and can be combined with a visit to Thikse.

Matho Gompa: Built in the 16th century under the Sasakya order Matho holds an annual festival during Feb-March during which the monks and novices go in to trances and self inflict wounds that appear to leave no marks. A 5 kms. Walking trail links Matho and Stakna gompa.

Leh Gompa: It house a large golden Buddha many painted scrolls murals and old manuscripts.

Soma Gompa: Of the monasteries the Soma Gompa (1957, new monastery) in Main St of the Old Village was built to Commemorate the 2,500th anniversary of the birth of Buddha.

Sankar Gompa (17th-18th century): Of the yellow Haat Sect is one of the few gompas built in thevalley bottom is a 3 km. pleasant walk past the Himalayan hotel through fields. It houses the chief lama of Spituk and 20 otheres. The newer monks’ quarters are on three sides of the courtyard with steps leading upto the Du-khang (Assembly Hall) .

Shanti Gompa: Continuing the Changspalane across the stream you reach the start of the stiff climb up to the new white Japanese Shanti Gompa.

Ecological Centre: There is an Ecological Centre of LED eG (Ladakh Ecological Development Group) and craft shop which opened in 1984 to spread awareness of Ladakhi environmental issues encourage self-help and use of alternative technology.