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Bhubaneshwar

 
Bhubaneshwar | Puri | Konark
 
Altitude : 45 mts above Sea level
Languages : Oriya, Hindi, English

Bhubaneshwar (Bhuban being world and Iswar meaning god i.e. (’The lord of the universe’) is the capital of Orissa, chosen in 1948 in place of Cuttack partly because it was the ancient capital of the Kalinga empire. It is the architectural legacy of that period and it is a walk down centuries of temple architecture. With 600 temples still intact, the temples are to this ancient city as forts are to Rajasthan. It is probably the only city in the world that enables an authentic overview of the stages of development of Hindu religious architecture.

Today these temples are gentle reminder of the splendour, the heritage that was once India. Regular dances by the ‘Devadasis’ or divine servant girls, rituals and rites recital of hymns were all an integral part of its temple culture.

Temples in Bhubaneswar are built on a common plan as prescribed by Hindu norms. The structure is divided into four distinct parts or the outer chamber is the ‘Jagamohana’. The ‘Garbhagriha’ is the inner sanctum of the presiding deity. There is also a conical beehive shaped tower which forms the third part-the ‘Nata Mandap’, and the fourth is the ‘Bhoga Mandap’. All visible parts of a temple are sculpted with motifs of priests, kings, courtiers, pilgrims, celestial dancers, couples in embrace, birds, animals or scenes from religious epics and legends. With a juxtaposition of modern buildings and ancient temples, Bhubaneswara is a reasonably pleasant and manageable city, with enough to justify a stopover for a day or two. It is also a useful base for day trips to Dhauli, Nandankanan zoo and Cuttack.

Places of attraction :-

Temples
In Bhubaneshwar the orientalist is in for a delightful break. The temples of Laxmaneswar Satrughaneswar and Bharateswar which were built in the 6th century AD are relics of early religious shrines in Orissa. The 500 temples of the original ‘7,000’ that once surrounded Bindusagar Tank draw vast numbers of pilgrims and visitors to the city.

Parasurameswara:
Just west of the Lewis Road is a cluster of about 20 smaller temples including some of the most important in Bhubaneswar. The best preserved of these early temples is Parasurameswar Mandir a small single and ornate Shiva temple built in a about AD 650.It has lively bas-reliefs of elephant and horse processions lattice windows and Shiva images. This temple built in 650 AD is one of the earliest temples of Bhubaneshwar. This temple is built in the Kalinga style of temple architecture and was dedicated to Lord Vishnu, Yama, Surya and seven Mother Goddesses. In typical fashion it is liberally sculpted with amorous couples, animals and floral motifs. The 7th century temple though small is highly decorated and is the best preserved-though not oldest-of the early Bhubaneswar temples. The rectangular (rather than square) porch and the stepped roof indicates an early date.

Even so the porch was probably built after the sanctuary itself as suggested by the rather crude junction between the two. In the northwest corner of the temple compound is a ‘Lingam of one thousand Lingas’.
Just south of Parasurameswara temple is the Swaranjaleswara temple. Built in a similar style the motifs on the walls however differ depicting scenes from the Ramayana.

Vaital Deul (800 AD):
This temple has a double-storey ‘wagoon roof’ influenced Buddhist cave architecture. It dates from the 8th century and was a centre of tantric worship. Vaital Deul or temple is the shrine of Chamunda (a tantric form of the Goddess Kali) or Shakti. Seated on a corpse in a dark inner sanctum is the Goddess Chamunda. She has a garland of skulls around her neck and is flanked by a jackal and an owl. The niches on the inner wall depict equally startling images along with scenes of tantric and erotic sculptures. It is also unique in that the outer surface of the vault is plain while the inside wall is profusely embellished.Outside on the east face of the Deul the lower of the two-chaitya windows has a beautifully carved figure of the sun God Surya.

Mukteswara (950 AD):
Often referred to as the ‘Gem of Orissa Architecture’ this temple has been built on the lines of the Kalinga School of temple architecture.
Not far from the Parsurameswar is the small 10th century Mukteswar Mandir one of the most ornate temples in the capital. The finely detailed carvings show a mixture of Buddhist Jain and Hindu styles but unfortunately some of the figures have been defaced. The ceiling carvings are particularly striking and the stone arch is revered for its architectural style. In front of the temple is a beautifully arched torana clearly showing a Buddhist influence. This ‘Torana’ is a unique feature of this temple. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva-Mukteswara and is carved with figures of ascetics in various poses of meditation. Scenes from the storehouse of Indian fables the ‘Panchatantra’ can also be seen on the walls.

A dip in a sacred well to the east of the temple is supposedly a cure for infertility. In the same compound, Siddheswar Mandir was built later than Mukteswar and is plainer, but has a fine standing Ganesh figure. Across the path from Mukteswar, Kedargauri Mandir is one of the oldest temples in Bhubaneswar, although it has been substantially rebuilt.

Rajarani Temple (1100 AD):
This temple, built circa AD 1100 and surrounded by relaxing gardens, is famous for its ornate deul. The name of this temple is supposed to be derived from the red gold sand stone used for its construction. Rajarani is the local name for the stone. The deul is intricately carved with figurines in various stages of daily chores. The lower portion of the deul has the ‘Guardians of the eight directions’ guarding the eight cardinal points of the temple. Around the compass points there are pairs of statues representing the eight dikpalas, who protect the temple. Between them, nymphs, embracing couples, elephants and lions fill the niches and decorate the pillars.

Brahmeswara Temple (1050 AD):
Standing in a courtyard flanked by four smaller structures, the 9th century Brahmeswara Mandir is a smaller version of Lingaraj Mandir.
Brahmeswara temple depicts the mature Orissa style of temple architecture.The deul and the Jagmohana are both intricately carved and for the first time in temple architectural history, musicians and dancers appear on the outer walls and iron beams find their first use. In the western section Chamunda, Siva and other deities are depicted. The sanctuary itself houses a Shiva linga. There are minor shrines in each corner of the compound. It is notable for its finely detailed sculptures with erotic and sometimes amusing elements.

Lingaraja (11th Century AD):
This 54 mts. high temple is dedicated to Tribhuvaneswar (Lord of the Three Worlds). also known as Bhubaneswar. It present form dates from 1090 to 1104, although parts of it are over 1400 years old. The Lingaraja temple dominates the skyline of Bhubaneswar from as far away as 15 kms. This temple was constructed in the 11th century AD at the site of an old seventh century shrine. Alongwith the deul and the Jagmohana the Lingaraja temple have two new structures, the ‘nata mandira’ (Dance hall) and the ‘bhoga mandapa’ (offering hall). Dedicated to Lord Siva the ‘Lingam’ here is unique in that it is a ‘Hari Hara’ lingam-half Siva and Vishnu. There are around 150 subsidiary shrines within this giant temple. The granite block, representing Tribhuvaneswar, is apparently bathed daily with water, milk and bhang (marijuana). The temple compound is about 150 mts. square, and more than 50 smallertemples and shrines crowd the enclosure. In the northeast corner, the small temple to Parvati is interesting.

The Orissa State Museum:
A visit to the museum provides an instant overview of the museum (and landmark) on Lewis road is worth a visit. It boasts a collection of rare palm-leaf manuscripts traditional and folk musical instruments, Bronze-Age tools, an armoury and fascinating display of Orissan tribal anthropology. A visit to the museum provides an instant overview of Orissa as it was and still is. It has a rich collection of sculptures, coins, copper plates, stone inscriptions, lithic and bronze age tools, rare manuscripts written on palm leaves, traditional and folk musical instruments. The natural History collection is also impressive, and most exhibits still remain their fur and feathers. The magnificent collection of Buddhist and Jain sculptures, which are displayed in chronological order, constitute the most important antiquities in the museum. It also boasts a gallery displaying the works of contemporary Orissan artists. The museum is open from 10 am to 5 pm daily, except Monday.

The Handicrafts Museum(Secretariat Road) :
This museum has a splendid collection of stone sculptures, patta paintings, brass castings, horn toys and Orissa’s famous filigree work.

Tribal Museum:
Northwest of the town. This museum provides an insight into the tribal Culture of Orissa. Although this place is primarily an anthropological research centre, visitors are welcome. The outdoor display of indigenous Orissan housing was destroyed during the 1999 cyclone, but should be worth visiting when repaired. There is a large collection of tribal dress, weapons and jewellery.
 
 
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