A Many-Splendoured City
Situated round two artificial lakes and on gently rolling hills
Bhopal is the capital of Madhya Pradesh and a fascinating amalgam of
scenic beauty historically and modern urban planning. Its proud
heritage and modern urban planning are based on the site of 11th
century city of Bhojapal. It was founded by the legendary Raja Bho
who is credited with having constructed the lakes around the city.
The founder of the existing city was however, an Afghan soldier of
fortune Dost Mohammed (1708-1740).
Fleeing from Delhi in the chaotic period that followed Aurangzeb’s
death Dost Mohammed encountered the beautiful Gond queen kamlapati
who sought his aid after the murder of her consort. A charming
legend relates how the queen would recline in a lotus barge and
drift across the lake on moonlit nights. The two lakes of Bhopal
still dominate the city and are indeed its nucleus. Along their
shores stand silent sentinels that testify to the growth of a
city.Bhopal today represents a harmonic symphony of old and new. The
old city with its teeming market places fine old mosques and palaces
still bears the aristocratic imprint of its former rulers. To the
north sprawl the huge industrial suburbs and the slums that these
developments in India inevitably give rise to. The new city is
equally impressive with verdant exquisitely laid out parks and
gardens broad avenues and streamlined modern edifices high-rise
offices and leafy residential areas is to the south.
Bhopal is hardly on every traveller’s itinerary but it has a relaxed
feel for a state capital a number of cultural attractions and is a
good base for some excellent excursions.
Places of attraction
Taj-ul-Masjid: Said to be the largest mosque in Asia the
building of this towering edifice was begun by Shah Jehan Begum
(1868-1901) but was incomplete on her death. This great queen Bhopal
eighth ruler left many monuments in the city and to her goes the
credit for Bhopal’s postal system railways and waterworks. After her
death lack of funds prevented the completion of the masjid and
construction was resumed only in 1971.It is a huge pink mosque with
two massive white-domed minarets and three white domes over the main
building. The most striking features of the mosque are the
impressive main hall with its interred arched roof broad façade
spacious courtyard and smooth marble floor. A three-day Ijtima
congregation held here annually draws people from all over the
country. Today it is used as a religious school (madrassa) during
the day. The main Chote Talao entrance with impressive steps is
closed so enter by the Lall Market gate.
Jama Masjid: Gold spikes crown the minarets of this beautiful
mosques built in 1837 by Kudsia Begum. This small masjid is
surrounded by the bazaar.
Moti Masjd: Architecturally akin to Delhi’s Jama Masjid this
majestic mosque was built by Sikandar Jehan daughter of Kudsia Begum
in 1860. It is a smaller mosque with two dark red minaretes.
Shaukat Mahal and Sadar Manzil: Situated at the entrance to
the Chowk area in the heart of the walled city Shaukat Mahal is an
architectural curiosity. Its mixture of styles in occidental idioms
sets it apart from the predominantly Islamic architecture of the
area. It was designed by a Frenchman said to be descendant of an
offshoot of the Bourbon kings of France. Post-Renaissance and Gothic
styles are combined in the
Once-opulent Sadar Manzil Hall of public Audience of the former
rulers of Bhopal.
Gohar Mahal: Situated behind Shaukat Mahal on the banks of
the Upper Lake is Gohar Mahal. It is an architectural gem dating
back to the times of Kudsia Begum who was also known as Gohar Begum.
She built this sprawling palace in 1820.The Mahal is a magnificent
expression of the fusion of Hindu and Mughal architecture.
Bharat Bhawan: One of the most unique national institutes in
India Bharat Bhawan is a prestigious multidimensional centre for the
performing and visual art. Designed by the renowned architect
Charles Correa the contours of Bharat Bhawan merge in exquisite
harmony with the landscape creating a visual impact of spacious and
national elegance.It is located on the banks of a lake in the
Shamala Hills and was created with the aim to shelter and encourage
the best creations of the country. The centre houses a museum of
arts. It hoses an impressive collection of rural and tribal arts a
modern art gallery a workshop for the fine arts a repertory theatre
indoor and outdoor auditoria, rehearsal room, and libraries of
Indian poetry classical and folk music. As well as the workshops
and theatres that are here there is two-part Roopankar Art Gallery.
To the right of the entrance is a superb exhibition of tribal folk
art paintings sculptures and carvings produced by previously unknown
adivasi (tribal) artists. Among the most striking exhibits are the
colourful murals depicting animals and village life. Across the
central courtyard the second gallery provides a contrast with some
of India’s finest contemporary urban photographs and sculptures
.Open from 2 pm to 8 pm every day except Mondays.The complex is very
much an educational project: There are two visitor information
centers as well as craft and pottery demonstrations and film shows.
Tribal Habitat ( Museum of Man): An open-air exhibition of
tribal house types located on south of Shamla Hills the Tribal
Haitat is a presentation of actual size dwelling typical of
contemporary tribal culture in various states of India. The
exhibition highlights architectural features and has elaborately
displayed interiors. The surrounding has been reconstructed to match
some of the interesting environmental features of Tribal villages.
The three newer elements to the park are Coastal Village (which runs
along the eastern edge of the lake) Desert Village and Rock
Heritage. A huge indoor museum and gallery contains adivasi
costumes, jewellery, ornaments, and a multimedia display and
information database. The habitat is open every day except on
Mondays and National holidays from 10 am to 6 pm.
Government Archaeological Museum: Fine collections of
sculptures are on display here from various parts of Madhya Pradesh.
Highlights of the collection are: Paintings of various schools
copies of paintings from the Bagh Caves near Mandu and the statues
of Lakshmi and the Buddha. The museum is open from 10 am to 5 pm on
all days except on Mondays and gazetted holidays.
Laxmi Narayan Temple and Museum: This beautiful temple on the
Area Hills has a museum attached to it which houses a selective
collection of local sculptures from Raisen, Sehore, Mandasaur and
Shahdol districts of Madhya Pradesh dating mainly from the Paramana
period. There are good views over the lakes to the Old Town from the
Lakshmi Narayan Temple also known as the Birla Mandir. The Museum is
open from 9 am to 5 pm on all days except Mondays.
Van Vihar: This safari park is located on a hill adjacent to
the Upper Lake with an area of 445 hectares. In these natural
surroundings wildlife watches can view a variety of herbivorous and
carnivorous species. It has tigers, leopards, lions, crocodiles and
bees among others.Open everyday except Tuesday from 7 to 11 am and 3
to 5.30 pm.
State Archaeological Museum: Near the Lower Lake this museum
contains quite a small collection of 6th to 10th century Hindu
sculptures, bronzes, prehistoric exhibits and copies of paintings
from the Bagh caves. It’s open from 10 am to 5 pm daily except
Monday.
Upper and Lower Lakes: The Upper Lake is divided from the
Lower by an overbridge and is six sq. kms. In area. Madhya Pradesh
Tourism’s Boat Club on the Upper Lake provide facilities for
exciting trips by sail paddle and motor boats. There is fairly dull
aquarium near the Lower Lake.
Regional Science Centre: This science museum is located on
the Picturesque Shyamala Hills. It houses about 300 participatory
exhibits distributed equally in ‘Invention’ and ‘Fun Science’
galleries.There is also a ‘Taramandal’ (Planetarium). The museum
remains open from 10.30 Am to 6.30 Pm on all days except Mondays.
Chowk: In the heart of the old city the Chowk is lined with
old mosques and havelis reminders of a bygone era. The shops in its
narrow alleys are treasure troves of traditional Bhopali Crafts:
silver jewellery, exquisitely fashioned beadwork embroidered and
sequined velvet fashioned purses and cushions.
Aquarium: Facing the Lower Lake the fish-shaped aquarium
houses a number of fascinating species of fish in all shape and
sizes.Open all day except Mondays from 3 to 7 pm.
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